Magazine


THE DINNER DETECTIVE VISITS: Market in Manchester's Northern Quarter

by The Dinner Detective
23/ 3/2005

THERE is such a homely feel to the Market Restaurant that you could be forgiven for getting too comfy.

But the snug chairs, granny style bric a brac and casual feel does not mean that you can slip your shoes off and watch telly while enjoying your food. This may look cosy but it is a serious restaurant charging serious prices. Indeed, the art deco lights, old advertising posters decorating the walls and rustic carafes add to the relaxed atmosphere but an Australian shiraz could set you back £16.99.

Still, when a member of staff took my coat and urged me to relax in the pre-dine area and she was so laid-back that I checked she hadn't thrown my coat on a chair (of course, she didn't). The relaxed atmosphere continued as we ordered our food, partly because the menu is hand-written and the mismatched crockery was collected from flea markets over the years.

I started with Lancashire black pudding with potato and apple pancake (£5.95), a traditional meal that I felt would be the perfect test for such a homely setting. The black pudding was smooth and spongy and was perfectly matched with the tangy potato cake. My dining partner chose the cream of cauliflower soup with croûtons (£4.95) that tasted equally homemade.

The "as good as granny made" continued as my dining partner tucked into a perfectly cooked rare fillet of beef with mushroom gratin (£15.95) and had the less traditional lemon sole fillets with smoked salmon, avocado and hollandaise sauce (£14.95). Both were cooked to the same high standards but we were glad we ordered some potato wedges (£2.25) to accompany the main courses or we may not have been as full as we'd liked.

Then to dessert, both the saffron Pavlova with lemon curd and cream and caramel sauce (£5.25) and the chocolate amaretti mouse (£5.25) satisfied, providing the perfect ending.


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